Wine & Wine Culture 酒与酒文化

——酒文化的内涵
——Connotation of Wine Culture
酒文化的内容十分广泛,不仅包容它自身的物质和社会方面的内容,如酿造史、产业史,与酒伴生的酒器的知识;社会组织对酒的管理、限制、赋税等等措施及其演变;更使酒文化达到几乎包罗万象的程度的是,由于酒的效用所引发的生理、心理反应,从而所导致的社会效应,遂使全部的人文科学和部分的实验科学中都有酒文化的足迹。
With extensive contents, the wine culture not only includes the material and social contents, such as knowledge of brewing history, industry history and drinking vessels associated with wine; measures and development of the management, restriction and taxes of the social organizations on wine, but also nearly reaches an all-inclusive level, which refers to the physiological and psychological reaction even the social effect due to the wine’s effect. Therefore, there is all wine culture in all human science and part of experimental science.
文化不仅仅停留在纸面上,更频繁而普遍地布藏在日常的生活风习中,酒文化也是如此。喝酒者和参加饮宴的人并不以酒文化的担随者而出现,但传统的饮宴礼俗,约定俗成的聚饮方式,乃至与酒有关的各种行为心态,无不或隐或显地呈示中国文化的特有色彩。有的有渊源踪迹可寻,有的已是成了集体无意识那样的精神积淀,只有深谙中国酒文化的人才能有所意识。这些表现于日常生活习惯中的酒文化的内容,又和中国大文化的各大体系犬牙交错,并曲曲折折通向以儒道佛思想为支柱的中国民族精神的底蕴。从这个意义上说,酒文化不但是中国文化的一个分支,又是从整体上认识中国文化的一个重要的角度。
The culture not only exists on the paper, but also implies in the daily living climate frequently and widely, so as the wine culture. The drinkers and the people attending the feast don’t appear as the undertaker of the wine culture, however, the traditional feast custom, the conventional drinking mode, and even all kinds of behavior mentality relevant to wine all express the unique Chinese culture implicitly or explicitly. Some can be found the origin through traces, and some has been the spiritual deposit such as the collective unconsciousness, which is only aware of by those know well about the Chinese wine culture. These contents of the wine culture in the daily life and habits integrate with each system of the Chinese culture, circuitously leading to the connotation of the Chinese national spirit with the Confucian, Taoist and Buddhist thoughts as the backbone. In this sense, the wine culture is not only a branch of the Chinese culture but also an important angle to know the Chinese culture on the whole.
“李白斗酒诗百篇,长安市上酒家眠,天子呼来不上船,自称臣是酒中仙。”(杜甫《饮中八仙歌》)“醉里从为客,诗成觉有神。”(杜甫《独酌成诗》)“俯仰各有志,得酒诗自成。”(苏轼《和陶渊明〈饮酒〉》)“一杯未尽诗已成,涌诗向天天亦惊。”(杨万里《重九后二月登万花川谷月下传觞》)。南宋政治诗人张元年说:“雨后飞花知底数,醉来赢得自由身。”因酒醉而成传世诗作,这样的例子俯拾皆是。
“Li Bai composed hundreds of poems when drinking, and slept in the wineshop in Chang’an. Even though the emperor called him, he didn’t go with the wine immortal named by himself.” ( Du Fu, Eight Immortal Drinkers). “When I get drunk, I am here like a guest. After completing the poem, I feel conscious.” (Du Fu, Drinking Alone to Compose Poem) “People all have ambitions and with wine the poems are composed naturally.” (Su Shi, With ‘Drinking’ of Tao Yuanming) “The poem has been completed before the glass of wine is drunk, which also surprises the heaven.” (Yang Wanli, Drinking in the Moonlight in Wanhuachuan Valley Two Months after the Double Ninth Festival) Zhang Yuannian, a political poet of the Southern Song Dynasty, said, “Petals faded on the ground after the rain, I became free in the inebriation.” Such examples are all around for the famous poem composed in the inebriation.
不仅为诗如是,在绘画和艺术书法中画家中也是如此。“吴带当风”的画圣吴道子,作画前必酣饮大醉方可动笔,醉后为画,挥毫立就。“元四家”中的黄公望也是“酒不醉,不能画”。“书圣”王羲之醉时挥毫而作《兰亭集序》,“道媚劲健,绝代所无”,而至酒醒时“更书数十本,终不能及之”。李白写醉僧怀素:“吾师醉后依胡庆,须臾扫尽数千张。飘飞骤雨惊飒飒,落花飞雪何茫茫。”怀素酒醉泼墨,方留其神鬼皆惊的《自叙帖》。草圣张旭“每大醉,呼叫狂走,乃下笔”,于是有其“挥毫落纸如云烟”的《古诗四帖》。
Not only the poem is composed like this, so are the painters in the painting, art and calligraphy. The saint of painter Wu Daozi, with the character of “strips in Wu’s work being blown in wind”, painted after drunk and completed instantly. Huang Gongwang, one of the “Four Great Painters of the Yuan Dynasty”, couldn’t paint unless drunk. The “Sage of Calligraphy” Wang Xizhi wrote the Lan Ting Ji Xu when he was drunk, which was “combining softness and power and unique in the dynasties”, after he was conscious, he “amended for tens of books, but couldn’t be compared with it”. Li Po wrote the drunken bonze Huai Su, “When my teacher got drunk, he could write thousands pieces of paper at once, which was so marvelous.” Huai Su splashed the ink after ebriety, and then the marvelous Zi Xu Tie was composed. The Sage of Cursive script Zhang Xu often drunk and shouted and then wrote, hence the Four Poem Calligraphy Copybook was composed with the writing like clouds and mist.

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