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Land of the Panda— — Wild China Episode 5

第五集《沃土中原》
该集以长城和黄河流域的中原为中心,镜头扫过这片曾经孕育过中华古文明的大地。在秦岭森林里依然如施过魔法般孕育着神奇的生物:大熊猫、金丝猴、羚牛,还有全世界绝无仅有的上百只被誉为“吉祥鸟”的美丽朱鹮。跟随镜头,来到中国首都及历朝古都北京,看清晨遛鸟打拳的老人和致力于救助猛禽的青年。千百年象征着民族精神的少林寺,也在鹤、猴、蛇等动物身上寻找着师法天然的武术奥秘。

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Chinese Food 22 : Xiasha Shaomai 下沙烧卖

Bamboo shoots in spring are tender and fresh after the spring shower. Xiasha Shaomai (steamed dim sum) made in Pudong, Shanghai directly uses fresh bamboo shoots and meat as the stuffing to wrap a graceful shape of peach blossom. When cooked, the stuffing and extract are spilling-over and appetizing.春雨过后,春笋又嫩又鲜。上海浦东的下沙烧卖,用的就是新鲜春笋和肉拌成馅儿,再包成亭亭玉立的桃花模样,蒸热了馅汁满溢。
The most critical raw materials of Xiasha Shaomai are bamboo shoots in spring. Earlier bamboo shoots are tough in taste while later bamboo shoots are not fresh enough. So the production time of Shaomai is determined by the natural growth cycle of bamboo shoots in spring. The real tender and fresh shoots only have one to two months of “lifetime”. So the timing for selling Shaomai is different every year and the duration also differs between 45 and 60 days.下沙烧卖最关键的原材料是春笋,太早出产的笋口感偏粗,晚期的笋则鲜度不够,每年要根据春笋的自然生长周期,来确定烧卖的制作时间,而真正又嫩又鲜的春笋,往往只有这一两个月的“寿命”。所以,不仅烧卖上市的时间年年不同,就连每年上市的时间长短也不一样,一般都在45-60天以内。
Among the stuffing of Xiasha Shaomai, 40% are bamboo shoots. Only tender tops of bamboo shoots are purchased and used on the same day. After being chopped, bamboo shoots are mixed with refined edible oil; although fresh meat accounts for 60%, it serves as auxiliary materials when it comes to taste. Fresh fat and lean met are minced separately and mixed in the ratio of 2 to 8. Finally, few green onion and pork jelly salad will be added to make the stuffing delicious. Only in so doing, the cooked Shaomai offers crisp and tender taste of bamboo shoots and savoury meat.下沙烧卖的馅儿里,春笋占四成,只用鲜嫩春笋里的嫩头,当天入货当天使用,切碎成细丁后,加入精制油等;鲜肉虽然占六成,但从味道上来说,却是辅料,用的是新鲜的夹心肉,把肥瘦肉分开剁碎后,按2:8的比例拌合。最后,还要加入少量的葱和肉皮冻,调出鲜口。只有按照这个比例调制的馅料做成的烧卖,在蒸熟后,入口既能吃到春笋的脆鲜,还能尝到伴随的肉香。
Besides, there is another better way to satisfy an appetite for good food: eating two bamboo shoot Shaomai and one bean paste Shaomai. Sweetened bean paste is also used as the stuffing of Xiasha Shaomai. Local red beans, together with powder grinded from walnut, melon seeds and dried tangerine, white sugar and refined edible oil are used to make the stuffing, providing a glutinous and sweet taste. Eating together the two kinds, one sweet and one salty, you can have a full and satisfactory feeling.此外,还有一种更加解馋的吃法,那就是两个笋馅儿的烧卖搭配一个豆沙馅儿的一起吃。下沙烧卖还有豆沙馅儿的烧卖,用的是当地产的大红袍赤豆,拌上核桃肉、瓜子肉、陈皮等磨成粉,再用白糖和精制油,按比例制作成豆沙馅。入口后,豆沙糯而甜。一口甜,一口咸,吃饱了也满足了。
Every year when Xiasha Shaomai hits the market, peach tree is also in full blossom in Xiasha. Eating Shaomai and enjoying peach blossom are the most pleasant enjoyment of local residents in the spring. It’s probably because of this, Xiasha Shaomai is similar to peach blossom in shape to some degree.每年,下沙烧卖上市的季节,下沙一带的桃花也开了。吃烧卖,赏桃花,是当地很多人在阳春三月最惬意的享受。或许也是因为这个渊源,下沙烧卖和桃花还有几分形似。
To produce Shaomai similar to the shape of peach blossom, rolling the wrapper is the key. Until now, the wrapper is still hand-made, which is roughly pressed to a round shape, then roll to thick center and thin edge: thick for the center to wrap stuffing and thin edge which shall be not only smooth, but also with wave and bump shape. When putting the stuffing on the wrapper, the worker will slightly nip it in the palm and make a circle, and then the Shaomai is finished. When cooked, the wrapper with the wave shape on the edge is opening up with the steam, naturally showing the shape of peach blossom.要把下沙烧卖做得像桃花,关键在于擀皮的功夫。至今为止,下沙烧卖的面皮还是手工做的。面皮先要大致压成圆形,再擀成内厚外薄,裹馅儿的中心地方要厚,面皮边上一定要薄,面皮边上还不是光滑的,而是微微有些波浪和凹凸感觉的形状。如此擀好的面皮包上馅料,在手掌里稍微捏上一捏,再打圈一转,烧卖才算做成了。蒸好后,外圈波浪形的面皮随着热气展开,自然呈现出一朵桃花的形态。
In addition to rolling the wrapper well, steaming is also an important step. First is to boil water; then put Shaomai on the food steamer. 8 minutes high heat is enough, 10 minutes top. Overcooking will make the Shaomai cave in and if undercooked, Shaomai isn’t glutinous enough. Only 8-10 minutes cooking can produce the most beautiful and delicious Shaomai.单单擀皮擀得好还不行,蒸烧卖也有讲究。一定要把水烧开了,再上笼蒸,大火蒸8分钟,最多10分钟出笼。蒸得太久烧卖就塌了,蒸得太短,烧卖又不够糯,只有这样蒸出来的烧卖才最好看,也最好吃。
20,000 to 30,000 Shaomai are produced every day during the hot sale season. A dozen chefs working together still couldn’t meet the growing demand. Like the annual peach blossom, Xiasha Shaomai calls for a gentle appreciation and enjoyment at the best time.如今,每年下沙烧卖上市期间,每天都要制作2万-3万个烧卖,十几位手工师傅一起做,仍然供不应求。下沙烧卖就像一年一度的桃花,美不胜收,但花期太短,所以花开之时,更要细细赏味。

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24 Solar Terms: Autumn Begins 立秋

Autumn Begins Introduction
“Autumn Begin” is the 13th solar term in the 24 solar terms. It’s on August 8 or 9 everyyear meaning the beginning of the fall. When it comes to this season, the leaves of thefirmiana tree start to fall, thus there is a saying of “One leave falls, autumn arrives.”When the sun reaches the celestial longitude of 135 degrees, the summer is passingaway and the weather turns cold gradually. People can feel the wind is getting cool andsee fogs in the morning sometimes. It’s also a season of harvest.

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Beyond the Great Wall— — Wild China Episode 4

第四集《风雪塞外》
该集所涉及的地域样貌是系列中最多样化最丰富的。有内蒙草原、甘肃戈壁,也有东北密林、西部边陲。有以“魔鬼城”闻名的敦煌雅丹,也有凡间仙境长白山天池,有硕果累累的吐鲁番,也有荒芜人迹的大沙漠。这里生活着野马、野猪、鹅喉羚、沙鼠、大天鹅、蓑羽鹤、沙狐和东北虎,还有驯金雕捕猎的哈萨克族,用传统方法破冰捕鱼的赫哲族,养蚕织成五彩丝绸的维吾尔族,豢养驯鹿作为交通工具的鄂温克族,当然更少不了生活在马背上的蒙古族。该集有很大一部分表现了动物与少数民族生活之间的密切联系。这种关系由来已久,甚至敦煌壁画里也有关于驼队的生动描绘。

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Chinese Food 21 : Chinese Wild Vegetable 中国野菜

Not only people in the modern society, but also ancient people, not only ordinary people, but also emperors and ministers have shown special preference to wild vegetable. Existing historical data showed that Emperor Li Shimin of the Tang Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang of the Ming Dynasty and Emperor Yongzheng of the Qing Dynasty ate wild vegetable. But they did so to boast they love the subjects and are thrifty, failing to taste the real flavor of potherb.不光现代人对野菜情有独钟,古人也吃野菜,不但普通百姓食用,皇帝大臣、达官贵人也吃。有史料可查的吃过野菜的皇帝有李世民、朱元璋,还有清朝的雍正皇帝,不过他们大多是借吃野菜来标榜自己的爱民和节俭,没有真正吃出野菜味道。
When it comes to eating edible wild herbs, we cannot help but mentioning Zhang Han of the Jin Dynasty who worked as an official in Luoyang, but missed brasenia schreberi very much of his hometown thousand miles away. So he simply quitted his job and returned back to the hometown so that he could fully and delightfully enjoy brasenia schreberi, which is an authentic edible wild herb whose lamina is floating on water and back produces a kind of grume like agar. It is smooth and tasty and can be cooked to thick soup. The line that “eating rice every day will be bored while having brasenia schreberi soup throughout a year will not be enough” clearly pointed to the feeling of the ancients after enjoying brasenia schreberi soup.说到吃野菜,不能不提到晋朝人张翰,这位老兄在洛阳做官,身在千里之外却十分思念家乡的莼菜,于是索性辞了官归隐家乡,这样就可以酣畅淋漓地吃上莼菜了。莼菜是一种地道的野菜,其叶片浮于水面,叶的背面分泌一种类似琼脂的黏液,莼菜吃起来嫩滑爽口,可以烹制成羹,“饭稻以终日,羹莼将永年”是古人美餐莼羹后抒发的情怀。
Shepherd's purse is a top grade among wild vegetables. It is cool in nature and sweet and has a fresh scent if being cooked. Lu You, a great poet in the Song Dynasty, loved shepherd's purse very much and especially wrote “Verse of Eating Shepherd’s Purse”.荠菜是野菜中的上品,它性凉、味甘,若做菜吃带有一股清香味。宋代大诗人陆游就喜好荠菜,为此他还特地写过一首《食荠诗》。
Su Dongpo was a literary giant and fine-food eater at the same time. He understood the beauty of every food. As the magistrate, he lived on the hump and cooked on his own. Su Dongpo liked artemisia selengensis turcz (also known as seleng wormood) in the spring. In 1084 when Su Dongpo was dispatched by Emperor Shenzong of the Song Dynasty to take office in Ruzhou, he specially went to today’s Ninjing to savour artemisia selengensis turcz. Every time when he went by Nanjing and was available, he would go to eat artemisia selengensis turcz, speaking highly of the delicious, tender wild herb with the effect of getting away fever and defusing bruise.苏东坡不仅是文豪,也是一位美食家,他了解每一种食物的妙处,作为一方的父母官他自力更生,亲自掌厨。苏东坡非常爱吃春季里的野菜芦蒿(又名蒌蒿、藜蒿)。1084年苏东坡被宋神宗派往汝州任职,他特地取道今天的南京品尝芦蒿,后来苏大诗人多次路过南京时,只要有机会就去食芦蒿,他对这种香嫩鲜脆,具有清火化淤功效的野菜极为赞赏。
In the final analysis, ancient celebrities ate wild vegetable not to fill the stomach; rather, what they enjoyed is a kind of elegance. If they were really reduced to satisfying hunger by wild herb, they should not have had leisurely and carefree mood to inscribe a poem for wild herb. Over the centuries, wild herbs were eaten by many poor people. For them, no matter how they eat wild herb, it’s unlikely for them to have the mood like the celebrities.说到底古代名人吃野菜大多不是为了果腹,人家吃野菜吃的是一种品位,如果真的沦落到靠野菜充饥,哪里还有闲情逸致去对野菜赋诗咏吟?在民间野菜千百年来仍被不少穷苦人家所食用,对于普天之下的布衣百姓,再怎么吃野菜,恐怕也吃不出名人的那种心境吧。

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Shangri-La— — Wild China Episode 2

第二集《云翔天边》
该集涵盖的土地是系列中最少的,只是覆盖了云南省范围,云南约占国土总面积的2%到3%,但是它占有全国总数近四分之一的植物、动物物种在这里都随处可见。西双版纳的亚洲野象,白马雪山的滇金丝猴,高黎贡山的红腹角雉,无量山的黑冠长臂猿,思茅的大绯胸鹦鹉……还有憨态可掬的小熊猫,长相奇特的熊狸,啃食竹根的竹鼠和寄宿于竹筒中的小型蝙蝠——扁颅蝠。云南仿佛包罗世间所有的万花筒,雪山竹海,密林深潭,承载着各种奇花异卉,使行走其间的动物也像这片土地那样披满了缤纷颜色。

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